We visited the Hacienda de San Gabriel Barrera this morning.  It's an amazing estate 10 minutes away from our apt. that was built in the late 1600's for Capt. Gabriel de la Barrera who was an heir to the incredibly productive Valenciana silver mine.   The mine at one time supplied 30% of the world's silver for over 250 years, reaching its peak production between 1768--1804. The Comstock Lode in Virginia City was incredibly rich but paled in comparison. Fifteen thousand tons of silver alone was extracted after the Mexican War of Independence ended in 1878. 

    The estate was the actual site for the extraction process. Mule carts and donkey carts brought the raw ore from the mine down to the estate and there, using mercury, water, salt, copper sulfate and other chemicals spread out over a stone-paved patio area, the ore would be kneaded for weeks until producing a silver paste.  The paste would be heated too vaporize the mercury, leaving pure silver. Needless to say, it was a very labor intensive, toxic environment in which to work.

    Today it is hard to imagine such a processing plant was turned into the beautiful gardens that we walked through. The estate occupies 5.436 acres, a modest size considering all the uses it has had. The main residence consists of dozens of rooms, several bedrooms, several meeting rooms and dining rooms and recreational areas; a large kitchen, a beautiful chapel, an impressive bell tower and elaborate patios and pools. The altar in the chapel is considered priceless. (see pic) It was part of a cathedral in Jaen, Spain, and shipped to the New World by Barrera in 1600's. The "retablo" features scenes of the Passion of Jesus made of wood covered in gold.

    We enjoyed wandering through the gardens that are arranged by themes, such as, Mexican Garden, Asian Garden, Orange-tree Garden, etc. The entire unplanted area is composed of intricately constructed cobblestone and brick paths and courtyards. The Mexican Garden must contain over a thousand different species of Cactus plants. Today twelve gardeners are kept busy tending to the estate's gardens.

    Back in town later in the day while out for a roasted chicken dinner at "La Carreta," we stopped briefly at the main Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guanajuato. See the photo below of the statue of the Madonna on the main altar which is believed to be one of the oldest pieces of Christian art in Mexico, possibly dating back to the 8th century!

The chapel with its gold "retablo," altarpiece

This area is the Jardin de Pergolas

Statue of Madonna on main altar in Basilica

Main sanctuary of Basilica built between 1671 and 1696

Stone steps leading to "El refugio de Beatriz'" the refuge of one of Barrera's daughters.

Today, the same area is Paula's refuge














Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Image
      We visited the University of Guanajuato steps this morning to see how students had decorated them for Los Muertos.  In the lower portion of the steps you can see sand "tapetes," or mosiacs, which represent the tradition of "La Ofrenda," or altar in Mexican culture. In addition to decorating the tombs in the cemeteries, these "ofrendas" are the most important and sacred commemoration during this event which Catholics call  "All Saints Day." Combining Catholic beliefs and pre-Hispanic indigenous beliefs, the Mexican families believe the souls of their departed return at this time each year to celebrate their lives on earth with the living.     There are seven levels to the "ofrenda": On the first level, there is the image of a patron saint; the second level has a tribute to all "disfuntos" or dead souls; the third level has a symbol of purification, such as salt; the fourth level has some form of bread, the staff of life; ...
Read more
Image
      Felt well enough to venture out this morning.  We decided it was going to be a sort of "rinse and repeat" day since I still wasn't up for anything more adventurous.  We wanted to continue looking for souvenirs, and in order to get to the Mercado, one way was to walk through the underground tunnels which at this hour would be relatively quiet and uncongested. Essentially all the booths and stalls that normally sell a variety of food, favorite regional drinks like "micheladas" (beer, lime juice assorted chilis and spices),  and trinkets related to Los Muertos, were closed.  But we were able to see the displays and decorations.     After purchasing a few things at the souvenir emporium, we headed to the Mega Soriana, a sort of Fred Myers, to try to return a cough preparation I had bought, but after reading the small print, realized had not been approved by the COFEPRIS or Mexico's FDA equivalent. Of course, the woman in the Farmacia said s...
Read more
Image
      We accumulated enough dirty clothes to try the washer and dryer in the terrace laundry room.  All went well except the dryer took several attempts to get things actually dry.  While we waited for the laundry we had our standard breakfast: still enjoying La Vie pastries, fruit, yogurt, etc.  Unfortunately, I've succumbed to one of the traveling risks: I've developed a pretty nasty cold probably from having sat next to a coughing Japanese lady on the plane. So our first stop out the door was to a local Farmacia where I found some Vicks 44 and cough drops.       We returned to the Mercado Hidalgo to continue looking for momentos we can easily pack home in a nice bolsa (bag) that Paula found at one of the many stalls.  Stopped by one of the dozens of small cafes that are spread throughout the city for coffee and more pastries!  Have to replenish those calories we're burning from all the steps.      After a refr...
Read more