The booming rockets kept us up last night beyond our normal bedtime, but "Viva la Mexico!"  Enjoyed breakfast in our bungalow: papaya from local market, pastry from La Vie, yogurt, and coffee from the Trader Joe grounds we brought with us. As you can see, we're roughing it!  Following our new routine,  we headed downtown, enjoying the mix of people gradually emerging onto the cobbled streets--mostly locals, but an occasional foreigner. But the dominant language heard is definitely Spanish. We located Mercado Hidalgo (see pic) a fascinating place with dozens of food vendors, preparing your food to order in front of you on comals, hot bowl-shaped iron griddles warmed by propane. One man offered me a piece of his very tender pork soaked in red chile. Delicious but a bit too picante! On both the ground floor of what was once a train station and on the second balcony surrounding the main floor are more than fifty stalls with an array of items for sale from tiny earrings to panchos and bedspreads.  

    We walked back passing the beautiful Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guanajuato  and then down Sopena, a main artery in downtown which will be part of the Dia de los Muertos parade route on Thursday. We met a nice Mexican couple along the way who live in Texas but also have an apartment here where they spend part of the year.  It was good practice for my Spanish.  She commented about the differences between Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende (where we will visit next week for two days) and noted how gentrified SMA is becoming compared to GTO. Here there are far fewer English speaking visitors, whereas SMA is becoming a haven for expats who want to reshape Mexico into a hybrid US with mariachis.  

    Returning to El Centro after our siesta, we ate dinner at La Pimienta Rosa across from the Diego Rivera museum. Paula had a giant hamburger (pineapple, beef patty, bacon, cheese, etc.) and I had "enchiladas mineras," a classic dish here in honor of the mining history of the area, which includes carrots and potatoes and a very rich sauce over the shredded pork-filled tortillas.

    Back in our apartment we were again greeted by fire works in the background, a symphony that will last late into the night.  The Los Muertos party has begun!

Paula achieved an amazing 12,584 steps (her 5-mile goal) and I only 11,884.

Plaza de la Paz with Basilica

Paula is trying to get me into shape

La hamburguesa gigante!

Enchiladas mineras

Mercado Hidalgo

Our apt. with bed behind partition on left