Guanajuato 2025

      We visited the University of Guanajuato steps this morning to see how students had decorated them for Los Muertos.  In the lower portion of the steps you can see sand "tapetes," or mosiacs, which represent the tradition of "La Ofrenda," or altar in Mexican culture. In addition to decorating the tombs in the cemeteries, these "ofrendas" are the most important and sacred commemoration during this event which Catholics call  "All Saints Day." Combining Catholic beliefs and pre-Hispanic indigenous beliefs, the Mexican families believe the souls of their departed return at this time each year to celebrate their lives on earth with the living.     There are seven levels to the "ofrenda": On the first level, there is the image of a patron saint; the second level has a tribute to all "disfuntos" or dead souls; the third level has a symbol of purification, such as salt; the fourth level has some form of bread, the staff of life; ...

      Felt well enough to venture out this morning.  We decided it was going to be a sort of "rinse and repeat" day since I still wasn't up for anything more adventurous.  We wanted to continue looking for souvenirs, and in order to get to the Mercado, one way was to walk through the underground tunnels which at this hour would be relatively quiet and uncongested. Essentially all the booths and stalls that normally sell a variety of food, favorite regional drinks like "micheladas" (beer, lime juice assorted chilis and spices),  and trinkets related to Los Muertos, were closed.  But we were able to see the displays and decorations.     After purchasing a few things at the souvenir emporium, we headed to the Mega Soriana, a sort of Fred Myers, to try to return a cough preparation I had bought, but after reading the small print, realized had not been approved by the COFEPRIS or Mexico's FDA equivalent. Of course, the woman in the Farmacia said s...

      This morning started a bit unscheduled only because it was the 4th day since the little Japanese bugs had to incubate fully and attack my immune system with gusto and I awoke feeling stuffed, coughing and achy.  In a word, rotten!  But we decided to push on with plans to visit the largest cemetery in GTO called Panteon Santa Paula.  Yes, how could we not, and next door was the famous Mummy Museum.     We headed out at about ten when the city is usually starting to come alive. It was interesting to see many school children outfitted in full Los Muertos regalia with faces painted like skeletons. Local schools must allow for a dress-up day.     Consulting Google Maps, the walk to the cemetery seemed a reasonable, flat 1.5 miles; but after being told by various locals which particular street to take, we ended up following a very convoluted course that was anything but flat, going up then down then around and almost doubling our distan...

      We accumulated enough dirty clothes to try the washer and dryer in the terrace laundry room.  All went well except the dryer took several attempts to get things actually dry.  While we waited for the laundry we had our standard breakfast: still enjoying La Vie pastries, fruit, yogurt, etc.  Unfortunately, I've succumbed to one of the traveling risks: I've developed a pretty nasty cold probably from having sat next to a coughing Japanese lady on the plane. So our first stop out the door was to a local Farmacia where I found some Vicks 44 and cough drops.       We returned to the Mercado Hidalgo to continue looking for momentos we can easily pack home in a nice bolsa (bag) that Paula found at one of the many stalls.  Stopped by one of the dozens of small cafes that are spread throughout the city for coffee and more pastries!  Have to replenish those calories we're burning from all the steps.      After a refr...

           The booming rockets kept us up last night beyond our normal bedtime, but "Viva la Mexico!"  Enjoyed breakfast in our bungalow: papaya from local market, pastry from La Vie, yogurt, and coffee from the Trader Joe grounds we brought with us. As you can see, we're roughing it!  Following our new routine,  we headed downtown, enjoying the mix of people gradually emerging onto the cobbled streets--mostly locals, but an occasional foreigner. But the dominant language heard is definitely Spanish. We located Mercado Hidalgo (see pic) a fascinating place with dozens of food vendors, preparing your food to order in front of you on comals, hot bowl-shaped iron griddles warmed by propane. One man offered me a piece of his very tender pork soaked in red chile. Delicious but a bit too picante! On both the ground floor of what was once a train station and on the second balcony surrounding the main floor are more than fifty stalls with an array of...

 Monday 10/27/25     At the start of the day, we had a couple of malfunctions: one with the internet not working and the other with the lack of hot water.  But our host Stewart, even though he was busy teaching at the University, was very responsive in having his cleaning lady, Gaby, sort out the problems.     After our morning java, we headed to El Centro to enjoy the relative calm of the city before the crowds emerged. For our two previous visits to GTO, one in 2014 and the other in 2022, we had stayed in an apartment at the top of a very steep hill, far removed from the center of town. But this year we opted for a place with a relatively flat walk to the center of town and more centrally located.  We eventually ended up at "La Vie en Rose," one of our favorite places for all around delicious food, great service and an amazing pastry shop (see pic). We enjoyed a pastry and nice strong coffee and then headed back to our apt, before stopping at the bee...

     We started the day yesterday at 4:45 am in our room at the Red Lion PDX.  We then took the shuttle at 6 am; checked in, got through TSA smoothly, bought a yogurt/granola bowl and found our gate for 9:12 departure. Our plane was 20 mins late due to plane-cleaning crew, but we still managed to arrive in Dallas ("big D, little a, double L-A-S") at about 2:20.  Anticipating the almost 7-hour wait in the airport, we found a spot to eat: Maggioni's Italian Restaurant.   The food was surprisingly reasonable and delicious.  After several walks here and there in airport and a few short naps, we took off for Leon, Mexico, at 9:11 pm and arrived at 10:19 on time! Got through customs smoothly, bought a ticket at the Taxi stand, and found our driver out front. At about midnight we entered our cozy apartment (pics to follow) and crashed on our very comfy bed at 1:00 am. A full day! Our apt. building with rooftop terrace Having a meal at airport. Paula is very e...